woodworking plans for furniture: 2011

Which woods looks alikes

Your local hardwood dealer is temporarily out of black walnut and you want to build that headboard this weekend. Why not substitute?

Some woods are very close in color and grain, and can be used to imitate each other. Often the right finish is all that's needed to complete the switch successfully. No one should substitute for deceptive reasons, of course, but there are times when availability and economy can be valid determining factors for replacing one wood with another.

Remember, though, that wood is like fingerprints - no single species is exactly like another in all

respects. Red oak can imitate white oak in furniture, for instance, but you wouldn't build a boat with it because it's not watertight. Before you embark on a substitute wood project, check with a knowledgeable hardwood salesperson to see whether or not the intended use is advisable.

The chart shown lists some examples of wood look-alikes that are commonly available at retail hardwood stores or through mailorder outlets. But if you want to substitute an exotic such as oolemeriballi for mutsekamambole, even the world's largest exotic wood importer may be unable to fill the order, and will probably send you back to your drawing board.

Commonly available look alikes
Traditional Wood	Substitute
Cherry	Alder
Pecan	Hickory
Teak	Iroko
Maple	Birch, Beech
Aspen	Basswood
Walnut	Butternut, willow, red gum
Red Oak	White Oak, Ash, Chestnut, Elm
Honduras Mahogany	Phillipine & African Mahogany
Brazilian Rosewood	Indian Rosewood, Cocobolo, Pau Ferro, Morado

8 fire safety tips

As a woodworker, you're constantly exposed to conditions that make practicing fire safety a necessity. Following are some tips that will help you minimize the risk:

TIP 1

Sawdust piles up quickly around a shop. Keep this combustible material at a minimum by sweeping or vacuuming often.

TIP 2

Keep all finishing products and other solvent-based items in sealed, labeled containers. Store them in metal cabinets away from heat sources such as your furnace.

TIP 3

Dispose of oily rags once you've finished a project. If you'll be using the same rag on successive days, spread it over a sawhorse or on a coat hanger where air can circulate freely around it, eliminating any possibility for spontaneous combustion.

TIP 4

Inspect electrical power tools often and replace any frayed cords, bad plugs, and faulty motors. Also, unplug all tools not in use.

TIP 5

Equip your shop with GFCI ground fault circuit protection. These devices, available in plug-in, breaker, or receptacle models, sense even minor changes in electrical lines and shut off the power if necessary.

TIP 6

Provide adequate ventilation in your workshop so you can rid the area of any dangerous vapors.

TIP 7

Install a smoke detector in a room or hallway near your shop. Test it often, too.

TIP 8

Keep a dry chemical ABC fire extinguisher in the shop. It will help extinguish fires resulting from combustible solids, flammable liquids, and electrical malfunctions.

How to make perfect miter joints

The picture-perfect miter joint - is it possible to accomplish?

We think so, and we're sure you'll agree with us after you master the easy-to-learn tricks and techniques we share with you on the following short article.

Lots of home hobbyists have a terrible time making accurate miter joints. Many a can of wood putty have been forced into the crevices between two "almost accurately cut" pieces of wood.

While that's great for manufacturers of this product, it doesn't say much for the level of craftsmanship.

Actually, simple miter joints aren't any more difficult to make than an accurately done butt joint, for example. In fact, you can make any joint well if you follow the Golden Rules of Joint Making.

Rule 1 - Use a sharp saw or bladeto make the cuts;

Rule 2 - Set up your saw accurately;

Rule 3 - Test the setup on scrap before cutting;

Rule 4 - Learn how to compensate for the minor fitting problems you'll encounter.

Enjoy making perfect miter joints!

First aid in your woodworking shop

While no one likes to think about them, shop accidents happen. And you should know what to do if they occur. Here's some common practices for typical mishaps.

Every shop, no matter its size, needs a first-aid kit to handle medical emergencies - from a splinter to a cut. You'll find two general types of pre-assembled kits available in a variety of sizes at most drugstores. Unit-type kits contain dressings, ointments, and other needs packaged in one-treatment units of from 16 to 32 in quantity. Cabinet-type kits, on the other hand, have the same items, but they are packaged in quantities for more than one treatment, such as a box of pressure dressings rather than one.

The following first-aid procedures were developed and are advocated by the American Red Cross. You'll want to remember them if a mishap occurs.

Scrapes, Cuts, and Punctures

STEP 1: Stop the bleeding by holding a sterile gauze dressing (or clean cloth) over the wound. If necessary, add more layers but don't remove the first one. Elevate the wounded part of the body above the heart; gravity should help slow down the bleeding.

(Note: Shock impairs your ability to think clearly. If the bleeding or the wound is more severe than you have coped with in the past, don't hesitate to call for help.)

STEP 2. After bleeding is controlled, wash your hands. Then wash in and around the wound. Rinse thoroughly. Dry the wound by blotting gently with a sterile gauze pad or clean cloth. Cover with a sterile dressing.

Watch carefully for signs of infection over the next few days (see sidebar). Consult your doctor about the need for a tetanus shot.

Splinters

STEP 1. Remove splinters in surface tissue with tweezers sterilized in boiling water or over an open flame.

STEP 2. Splinters just below the skin are worked out with the tip of a sterilized needle, then removed with a tweezers. Keep an eye on the area for infection. Often, a small broken-off piece will cause the area to fester. If it is too deep to work out, consult a doctor.

Blisters

STEP 1. Small blisters are best left unbroken. If the pressure does not fade, however, wash the area with soap and water, then use a sterilized needle to make a small hole at the base of the blister and drain.

STEP 2. Apply a sterile dressing to protect the area from further irritation. Watch for infection.

Eye Injury - Penetrating Object

STEP 1. If a splinter or other object penetrates the eye area, do not attempt to remove the object or to wash the eye. Call for help.

STEP 2. Cover both eyes loosely with a clean dressing. (Both eyes must be covered so the injured eye does not move.)

STEP 3. Stay calm and call a doctor or hospital for instructions.

Poisons - Swallowing

If you believe someone has swallowed a poison such as paint remover, stain, or varnish call the local poison control center or your doctor immediately. Check container label for ingredients.

Poisons - Splashing in Eyes or on Skin

STEP 1. For the eyes, pour luke-warm water gently into the affected eye, directing it away from the other eye. Continue flushing from two to three inches above the eye for five minutes.

For the skin, remove all clothing around the area and flush with generous amounts of water for several minutes.

STEP 2. Follow further instructions on container. Call poison control or your doctor.

What to do with glue squeeze-out - when should we remove it?

Ask three or more woodworkers the above question and you'll probably get three different answer: right away, after a few minutes and after the glue had dried. Chances are equally good that the person who gives you any of the three answers will have a rationale that seems plausible. In short, the subject of glue squeeze-out is one that's sure to generate some good discussion among anyone who has worked with wood.

Whenever you clamp two pieces of wood together with glue in between, you're dealing with variables in clamping pressure, consistency and amount of glue and species of wood. All of these factors can affect the amount of adhesive that may ooze out of the joint, as well as the technique you use to remove it.

Some Squeeze-out is Good

A little glue squeeze-out — a few tiny droplets or dribbles along the joint — is a sign of a good glue application job. No squeeze-out means you might have applied too little glue, creating a "starved", potentially weak joint. All the experts agree on this point.

Glue squeeze-out becomes a problem only if you can't com¬pletely remove all the excess glue from the wood surface. Any glue that remains on or in the wood fibers can hamper application of finishing material. You know you must remove all the glue that gets squeezed out from the joint, but when and how?

Generally, we don't advise waiting until the glue has dried hard. Note the "generally." Sometimes, you might be able to estimate your glue needs exactly and get just a few tiny beads of glue squeeze-out. If you have no more than this, you can wait till the glue has dried and flick off the beads with any sharp tool.

But, as was mentioned earlier, you could be making a serious mistake in trying to limit glue squeeze-out to so small an amount. Remember the starved joint.

The other extreme is no better. If so much glue oozes out that you'd need a chisel or lots of sand¬paper to remove it after it hardened, you're in trouble. Since the completely dry glue is quite likely harder than the grain of the surrounding wood, the adhesive you cut away might take some wood along with it. And if you use a sander, you risk sanding away too much of the wood.

No Water Is Better

We agree to disagree somewhat with both Snider and Duncan regarding use of a damp sponge or rag. We're convinced that the combination of moisture and pressure can indeed push some glue into the pores of the wood. Sanding will remove the glue at the surface, but perhaps not all the glue that was forced down deep. Why take a chance and wait maybe a couple of days for the wood to reach an equilibrium state before you can sand off the residue?

Let Glue Gel

Clean up excess glue after it has gelled a bit but before it has hardened. Follow Snider's advice and wait 5 to 10 minutes (or longer) after clamping. At this point you'll be able to slice away the "cottage cheese" with a dull chisel or other type of scraper.

Scraping the glue off after it has set for a few minutes makes sense. It's sort of a compromise between removing it right away and waiting until it's completely dry. Of course, once you remove the skin that's formed on the surface of the glue, the glue underneath is still wet. But removing it at this point keeps you from smearing the glue all over quite as much. And by removing as much as you can in this way, you minimize the sanding you'll have to do once the remaining glue has hardened.

How To Avoid Excessive Squeeze-Out

• Check that joint parts fit well by clamping together before gluing. Open pores of wood by sanding.

• Use a brush about the same width as the wood to spread glue. Glue directly from a squeeze bottle should be applied in zig-zag lines to both surfaces, then the pieces rubbed together to distribute.

• It's best to apply glue to both surfaces thinly and allow to par¬tially set before joining pieces.

• Check drying or "set" time of glue you're using. Some set up faster than others. Work to the pace of the glue.

• Don't apply too much clamp pressure. The object is to create a thin film of glue between parts. Too much pressure will squeeze the glue out, resulting in a starved joint. Usually, finger tight will do.

Paste stain and varnish - best way to finish your woodworking project?

No question about it - if you want the toughest possible clear finish on a project, polyurethane varnish is the way to go. It's hard, lustrous, and impervious to alcohol and water. But it is some trouble to apply. You have to mess up a brush, worry about runs and sags - and then there's the dust problem.

Paste varnishes and their companion products, paste stains, avoid all these problems while still giving you all the advantages of a polyurethane finish. I've been seeing them in the woodworking catalogs, and decided to order some to give them a try.

I made up some wood samples - hunks of oak, maple, and pine - and applied the stain and varnish according to the directions. For comparison, I also finished a sample in satin polyurethane - brushed on.

The paste varnish is simple to apply. You just wipe them on with cheesecloth, applying a light, smooth coat. The stains I tested is just as easy. It goes on smoothly and cover evenly. Between coats of varnish, I buffed off the samples with steel wool, then wiped on a second coat.

In our dusty shop, the paste varnishes came out as smooth as a carefully applied brushed-on and hand-rubbed finish. The brushed-on polyurethane, on the other hand, was full of dust.

There was some variation in the degree of yellowing or warm tone the varnish gave to the wood. After the samples were thoroughly dry, I gave each a coat of paste wax. Then, to test them for durability, I dribbled both water and alcohol on all the samples, letting them stand until dry.

This torture test did show up some differences between paste varnish samples and the brushed-on polyurethane. There was some slight discoloration and grain rising on the paste varnish samples, while the brushed-on polyurethane wasn't affected at all.

However, the paste finishes were easy to repair. To patch them, I buffed all with steel wool and applied another coat of wax. I could still see very faint traces of raised grain in all samples after rewaxing, but nothing that couldn't be lived with. All in all, I'd have to rate the paste finishes as being tough and easy to care for.

A distinct advantage of the paste varnishes is that the finish itself is very thin, without much buildup. This gives that hand-rubbed look without all the elbow grease. The cost of the paste varnishes and stains is in the same ballpark with brushed-on varnish, and a little seems to go a long way. Another plus is that paste varnishes and stains are virtually odorless.

My advice - give them a try! I think you'll agree that paste varnish and stain solve a lot of finishing problems.

Oak - one of the best hardwood in woodworking

Brief History of Oak

The Greeks and Romans used oak to construct their seagoing vessels because of its strength, toughness, and durability. The Saxons in England fattened their hogs with acorns, and ground the acorn for use as a seasoning. During this same period, landowners used the acorn as part of their daughters’ doweries.

In Europe, many great halls and castles were paneled with oak wain scoting and almost all furniture there was made of oak.

Today, the oak provide; food, tanbark for tanning leather, dyes, ink, even commercial cork.

Oak Wood Identification

Though there are 14 oak species of commercial importance grown in the U.S., they're marketed either as red oak (Quercus rubra) or white oak (Quercus alba).

Red oak has a pinkish red cast to it, large pores (you can blow smoke through one end of a piece of red oak and it will come out the other), and is quite hard.

White oak, on the other hand, is a tannish brown wood, has smaller pores, and is somewhat harder than red oak.

Woodworking Properties

Both red and white oak are moderately stable before and after working, and both work well with hand and power tools. Because white oak contains an abundance of tylosis (a membrane that seals cells), it is waterproof. Oak accepts finishes well. With built-up finishes, you may want to use a paste filler to fill the pores. This isn't necessary with oil finishes.

Uses in Woodworking

With these woods, the list goes on and on. You can use them for furniture, flooring, interior trim, paneling, turning, carving, and woodenware. White oak has two other important applications. It's highly prized as a material for making barrels and other watertight vessels, and it's one of the best woods for steam-bending wooden furniture parts.

Cost and Availability

One of the most commonly available of all woods, oak falls into the medium price category, with white oak somewhat higher than red. You can purchase oak in several different forms: lumber, plywood, interior trim, flooring, turning blanks, and veneer.

Source of Supply

Over 50 percent of the oak logged annually comes from the southern states. However, if you can get hold of some that's been grown in the Appalachians or the northern states (it's sold as northern oak), buy it. Because it grows more slowly than southern oak, it has a finer texture, more uniform color, and it works better.

Things to check out as you shop woodworking tools

Chances are you won't actually use the tool before you buy it, but you can learn a lot about it while at the store. Try changing bits. Is it easy to get your wrench on the collet nut or does the bases interfere? Does the collet let go of the bit with a single turn of the wrench, or does it take two or three bites? Does the router have a flat top so you can stand it on its head for bit changes?

Check the switch? Is it easy to reach with your hands on the grips or will you have to let go of the tool to shut it down?

How is your view of the bit? Can you see where it is and where it is going? Check the power cord. Is it stiff and heavy? If so, it can drag and make freehand work difficult. Do you like the feel of the grips? Can you remove the grips if necessary to fit the router into tight spots? Can you remove the base from the router? (You may want to do this to use the motor in certain accessories, or to use it freehand for power woodcarving.)

Finally, does the router maker offer accessories to extend the usefulness of the tool and help it live up to its potential as the most versatile tool in your shop?

Other tips before you buy a woodworking router

While cost, horsepower, and collet size are the big three considerations in selecting a router, you should also be familiar with the following:

Your collet size options. Almost any conceivable routing job you'll encounter can be handled by a router with a 0.25" collet. But, if you plan to do lots of exceptionally heavy work, you might consider a tool with a collet big enough to take 3/8" or even 1/2" bits. Just make sure it will take 1/4" bits as well. A few routers won't.

Collet Adjustment. Most routers require two wrenches for bit changes. One holds the motor shaft; the other turns the collet nut. Other routers have built-in shaft locks so you only need one wrench. That's one less wrench to handle, one less wrench to keep handy.

Depth Adjustment. All three major types (ring, rack and pinion, and spiral) work well. And almost all read out depth in the same 1/64" intervals. But if you plan to use your router upside down in a router table, you might prefer rack-and-pinion depth adjustment. With many of the others, the router motor slips down in its base as soon as you loosen the locking clamp.

Plunge Routing Capability. Plunge routers are spring-loaded, with their bits retracted above the base until you "plunge" the router down by pressing downward on the grips. The bit will then drop to the depth you have preset. For certain cuts, most notably those in the field of your stock rather than along the edges, this capability comes in very handy. Without the plunge feature, you have to start your router in the air, and then lower it down to the work.

Switch Type. A trigger switch is probably the most convenient for conventional routing for two reasons. First, you can squeeze it while maintaining two-hand control of the tool. And second, it shuts off automatically when you release it. On the minus side? You can accidentally squeeze the trigger when you pick up the tool. Not only that, but triggers also are hard to get at if you fasten your router to a router table. In addition, most trigger-switch routers have no removable bases. This rules out freehand carving as well as the use of just the router motor.

Toggle, rocker, and slide-type switches can be almost as convenient as triggers, provided they are located where you can reach them with both hands on the router grips. They are also better than triggers for router table work, and they usually allow you to remove the router base if necessary.

Drawbacks? Some of these switches are poorly located. All can be accidentally left on, or knocked on when the router is unplugged.

Handle Type. Most routers come with a pair of handles, usually knobs. But others have two vertical arm like grips, or a pair of D-shaped handles, or a combination of D- handles and knobs.

Which type is best? It's a matter of preference, but my experience is that small spherical knobs can cause cramps in your hands. For that reason I prefer a huskier grip such as arms or a pair of D-handles. For freehand work, I like the handles low on the router so I can rest my arms on the work for better control.

Electronic Features. The electronic revolution is just beginning to work its way into the shop, and three routers listed in the chart have special electronic features. Some woodworking routers have a digital depth-of-cut display, and these big routers give you a choice of two speeds, other woodworking routers have electronically controlled variable speeds, plus indicator lights that help you feed the tool at the proper speed. If you have experience with routers, you can probably sense the proper feed speed by ear and feel, but the indicators can help if you are just learning.

Variable Speeds. I've found them useful, especially for making slow, finish cuts in hardwoods.

Dust Pickup. These work fairly well on some cuts, and not so well on others. My feeling is that if I have to sweep up any chips, I might as well sweep them all and be free of the clumsy vacuum hose.

Worklights. These can be helpful if properly located in the router. Try before you buy.

What you should know before you buy a woodworking router

It's hard not to be impressed with a woodworking router's credentials. After all, with the right bits and accessories, it can cut intricate joints, make moldings, carve, make sighs, rout fancy edges, cut curves, make bowls, turn wood, joint edges, and trim laminates. No other shop tool is as versatile or more fun to use.

What isn't so fun is trying to decide which one to buy?

There are just too many, to choose, from, each with a different blend of features, each at a different price. After paring down your choices somewhat, you can then focus your attention on selecting a woodworking router with features that best suit your requirements. The following information and also from next articles, should help you do that.

How much horsepower do you need?

There is no substitute for power. Sure, a light-duty woodworking router can duplicate the work of a more powerful tool by taking two or more light cuts instead of one heavy one. But multiple cuts multiply your chances for error, and resetting the depth adjustment time after time is annoying.

Horsepower also determines how effective a woodworking router will be in maintaining operating RPMs. Any router you buy will have more than adequate rpms under no load, but an underpowered tool will slow down as soon as you feed it some work. As the tool slows down, cut quality drops off, the tool begins to strain, and its life expectancy drops.

For these reasons, buy as much power as you can afford. Unless you are certain you only want your woodworking router to perform light work on softwoods, go for a minimum of one hp. If you know you'll be making heavy cuts such as dadoes, cutting deep mortises and large tenons, or working extensively with hardwoods, I'd suggest selecting one with at least 1.5 hp.

Buying power will also almost certainly assure you of higher quality throughout the tool. You'll certainly get all ball-bearing construction rather than the less expensive and less durable sleeve bearings. I've owned two sleeve bearing routers in the past, and both burned out in a relatively short time. As you can see from the chart, most manufacturers have gone exclusively to ball bearings.

Tips for planning your woodworking place

As I've been telling you in previous article "Having a specific place to do your woodworking" , i'll continue with a series of tips planning your woodworking place:

• Selecting the right workbench for your situation is an all- important step since it will be the center of your woodworking activity. Full-size workbenches typically measure 6' to 8' long bench in these sizes may not work for you. Or, standard heights may prove uncomfortable. So, obviously, you'll have to do some tailoring. A good rule of thumb to remember is that working height should be about even with your hipbone, but decide what will be best for you.

You can either buy or build a workbench that suits your needs. Ready-built ones, in kit form, are available from the simplest made of steel and particleboard to the most elaborate of joined oak or maple.

If you build your own, no matter what its finished size, use sturdy materials and strong fasteners that results in a durable, steady work surface.

• Storage for tools and liquids as well as many of the other supplies you'll accumulate is a must. Otherwise, they'll quickly clutter up the shop and make any project more difficult. Store small hand tools within easy reach on a rack made of perforated hardboard. Use inexpensive plastic organizers to hold screws, bolts, and other hardware. Flammable and toxic liquids, such as thinner, glue, and paints, as well as power tools, should be stored in locked cabinets or other safe places away from curious young ones.

• Plan for proper lighting. Have one or two overhead lights for general illumination and several more concentrated fixtures for task lighting.

• A minimum electrical supply for power tools and lighting is one 20-amp circuit with ground fault protection. Larger shops should have one circuit for power tools and another for lighting. Position outlets around the shop so power is never far away.

An exhaust fan capable of changing shop air every four minutes provides adequate ventilation. Determine the size fan you need by figuring the cubic feet in your shop (length*width*height). You'll welcome this addition when gluing and finishing.

• Keep emergencies in mind. For warning against fire, you'll want to install a smoke detector. If one starts, have a good-size ABC-rated fire extinguisher handy. Battery- powered lights should be within reach in case of power failure. And a fully equipped first-aid kit will help you deal with injuries should they occur.

• Keeping the shop clean adds to safety and work efficiency. A broom and large dustpan are minimum. A shop vacuum is better. You'll also need a metal trash container with a tight-fitting lid to hold all the waste material you'll generate from project to project.

• A pair of sawhorses is a necessity for supporting bulky sheet goods and lengths of lumber while sawing or measuring. If space will be at a premium, consider buying the hinged, metal leg horses or the metal bracket type, both of which are easily disassembled for storage. You can build your own of scrap wood easily, and they'll be sturdier, but they will take up room.

• Lumber, hardwood, and sheet goods require storage, too. All wood should be kept off a con¬crete floor or it will take in moisture. Construct flat racks for your woods if you have the space. Otherwise, sheet goods can stand on edge, file card fashion, if propped so they won't bend or bow. Floor space may be limited, so look above for the possibility of overhead storage.

Once set up with the basics, you'll be able to work comfortably and efficiently, adding touches as you go along to complete your workshop.

Having a specific place to do your woodworking

As with any other hobby, you'll need an area that's convenient, comfortable, well-organized, and with sufficient space for work and storage. Depending on your experience level, the number of tools you have, and the size of most of your projects, that space can be great or small, basic or elaborate, but you'll need a definite area for a workshop to call your own.

Finding The Space

Available space, and your needs, will dictate where to locate your shop. The most likely places are basements, garages, and seldom - used rooms, but even closets and attics can be candidates. A basement, though, has several distinct advantages over other areas. It's out of the normal family traffic pattern, so your work won't be disrupting. More often than not, it has lots of unused space that can be put to immediate service as well as allow for expansion. And, basements make a comfortable working atmosphere - cool in summer and reasonably warm in winter.There are, however, two limiting factors in using a basement: accessibility and dampness. First, you have to be able to get materials in and out without much difficulty. And if you can't control dampness by waterproofing or dehumidifying, you'll have to locate other shop space.

Planning For Your Needs

Once you've found the site for your shop, take some time to plan on how to best equip it. The pointers which i'll present you in the next article, can help you decide on what to include, space permitting, of course.

What is the difference between consumer and professional woodworking power tools?

Most people know that tool manufacturers produce more than one line of a product for varying consumer needs. What they may not realize is how these tools differ in their manufacture, and what it is that makes one drill, for example, cost $25 and another "similar" one cost $125. We explain some of the points of difference here.

Design. The professional power tool is designed to be more powerful, last longer, and perform better under continuous-use conditions than consumer models. For occasional, around-the-house situations, you may prefer a less-expensive consumer woodworking tool.

Electrical cords. On most consumer tools, the electrical cord is 6 feet long or less. With the professional models, 8 and often 10-foot cords are the norm. With this length of cord, a worker doesn't have to use an extension cord in most situations.

Cord materials vary, too. With woodworking tools designed for professionals, who may have to work outside, it's important for the cord to remain flexible during cold weather. To protect the tools, natural rubber or high- cost elastomer jackets are used. Less-costly cords are sheathed with polyvinyl-chloride (PVC) material.

In addition, on the pro tool the cord protector leading into the tool is separate from the cord to facilitate replacement. On the consumer tool, the protectors are molded onto the cord.

Switches. Dust and frequent usage are the enemies of tool switches. Since woodworking professional tools are subjected to more of both, switches need to be heavy-duty and protected from dust.

Motors. Professional-quality woodworking tools have motors designed to generate more power and sustain overloading for longer periods than consumer tools. At the same time they must be light enough for trades people to use for a long time. To guard against short-circuiting at high temperatures and speeds, manufacturers coat the windings of better-quality motors with epoxy.
More-expensive woodworking tools have copper windings rather than aluminum ones because, while copper costs more, it makes the motor more powerful.

Precise positioning of the carbon brushes, which transfer electricity from the electrical outlet to the motor, also sets professional tools apart from consumer tools. On the former, the brushes are held by close- tolerance brass holders rather than by the high-impact plastic ones on the latter.
Another difference is the type of bearings used. Generally, consumer tools have sleeve bearings. For pro tools, manu-facturers use better-quality ball bearings to a greater extent to reduce the amount of lateral movement and vibration.
Gears. Often, a heavy-duty tool has wrought-steel gears, which are heat-treated to harden the metal. With some consumer tools, powdered-metal gears are used because they're less expensive.

Housings. Unless you know plastics, it's difficult to tell the difference between the materials used on pro tools and their consumer counterparts. Super-tough nylon often sheathes the former, and consumer tools have a less durable plastic covering.
Metal housings differ, too. The professional has mating surfaces that have been machined to fit against the motor housing. The consumer model is diecast with minimal machining.

Assembly. The major components of pro tools inter¬lock with one another. With consumer tools, the components often are held together with one set of screws.

Safety. No matter which type of equipment you buy there are certain maintenance procedures you'll want to follow for safety as well as extended tool life.

All electrical power cables should be in good repair, without frays, breaks or loose plugs. If your home workshop outlets aren't the three-prong type, always use a grounding plug adaptor.
If the woodworking tools aren't self-lubricating, follow the instructions in the manual to lubricate them at regular intervals.

And keep blades sharp. Dull blades can be dangerous as well as ruinous to work.

Woodworking tools - safety tips

Practicing tool safety regularly is one of the first habits to develop in the home workshop. Use common sense, and the guidelines below, to add to the many hours of woodworking enjoyment ahead of you in the shop.

• Always unplug a power tool before servicing or adjustment. Let moving parts come to a standstill.

• Never wear loose-fitting clothes or dangling jewelry when using power or hand tools.

• Check the condition of a tool before you use it. Inspect power cords for cracks or frays, cutting edges for sharpness, and handles for stability.

• Don't tamper with or remove safety mechanisms from power tools - they're there for your protection.

• Use the proper tool for a job. Read and understand all instruction manuals that apply to a tool before you use it. Find out what it was meant to do as well as what it can't do.

• If there is even a remote possibility of eye injury in a particular situation, don't hesitate to wear safety goggles.

• Keep onlookers, especially children, a safe distance away while you're working with tools. Always instruct others in the proper use of a tool before letting them use it.

• Work in good light. Use bulbs of sufficient wattage and have extra clamp-on lights available as needed.

• Never work with tools when you're in a hurry, tired, or in a bad mood.

• Put tools away after use, preferably in a locked cabinet.

How to plan your home workshop 2

If you build, your own, no matter what its finished size, use sturdy materials and strong fasteners that results in a durable, steady work surface.

• Storage for tools and liquids as well as many of the other supplies you'll accumulate is a must. Otherwise, they'll quickly clutter up the shop and make any project more difficult. Store small hand tools within easy reach on a rack made of perforated hard board. Use inexpensive plastic organizers to hold screws, bolts, and other hardware. Flammable and toxic liquids, such as thinner, glue, and paints, as well as power tools, should be stored in locked cabinets or other safe places away from curious young ones.

• Plan for proper lighting. Have one or two overhead lights for general illumination and several more concentrated fixtures for task lighting.

• A minimum electrical supply for power tools and lighting is one 20-amp circuit with ground fault protection. Larger shops should have one circuit for power tools and another for lighting. Position outlets around the shop so power is never far away.

An exhaust fan capable of changing shop air every four minutes provides adequate ventilation. Determine the size fan you need by figuring the cubic feet in your shop (length x width x height). You'll welcome this addition when gluing and finishing.

• Keep emergencies in mind. For warning against fire, you'll want to install a smoke detector. If one starts, have a good-size ABC-rated fire extinguisher handy. Battery- powered lights should be within reach in case of power failure. And a fully equipped first-aid kit will help you deal with injuries should they occur.

• Keeping the shop clean adds to safety and work efficiency. A broom and large dustpan are minimum. A shop vacuum is better. You'll also need a metal trash container with a tight-fitting lid to hold all the waste material you'll generate from project to project.

• A pair of sawhorses is a necessity for supporting bulky sheet goods and lengths of lumber while sawing or measuring. If space will be at a premium, consider buying the hinged, metal leg horses or the metal bracket type, both of which are easily disassembled for storage. You can build your own of scrap wood easily, and they'll be sturdier, but they will take up room.

• Lumber, hardwood, and sheet goods require storage, too. All wood should be kept off a con¬crete floor or it will take in moisture. Construct flat racks for your woods if you have the space. Otherwise, sheet goods can stand on edge, file card fashion, if propped so they won't bend or bow. Floor space may be limited, so look above for the possibility of overhead storage.

Once set up with the basics, you'll be able to work comfort¬ably and efficiently, adding touches as you go along to complete your workshop.

How to plan your home workshop 1

Having a specific place to do your woodworking makes sense.
As with any other hobby, you'll need an area that's convenient, comfortable, well-organized, and with sufficient space for work and storage. Depending on your experience level, the number of tools you have, and the size of most of your projects, that space can be great or small, basic or elaborate, but you'll need a definite area for a workshop to call your own.

Finding the available space, and your needs, will dictate where to locate your workshop. The most likely places are basements, garages, and seldom - used rooms, but even closets and attics can be candidates. A basement, though, has several distinct advantages over other areas. It's out of the normal family traffic pattern, so your work won't be disrupting. More often than not, it has lots of unused space that can be put to immediate service as well as allow for expansion. And, basements make a comfortable working atmosphere - cool in summer and reasonably warm in winter.
There are, however, two limiting factors in using a basement: accessibility and dampness. First, you have to be able to get materials in and out without much difficulty. And if you can't control dampness by waterproofing or dehumidifying, you'll have to locate other workshop space.

Planning For Your Needs Once you've found the site for your shop, take some time to plan on how to best equip it. The following pointers can help you decide on what to include, space permitting, of course. Selecting the right workbench for your situation is an all - important step since it will be the center of your woodworking activity. Full-size workbenches typically measure 6' to 8' long and from 24" to 36" deep, with a height between 32" and 42". Because of space limitations, a bench in these sizes may not work for you. Or, standard heights may prove uncomfortable. So, obviously, you'll have to do some tailoring. A good rule of thumb to remember is that working height should be about even with your hipbone, but decide what will be best for you.

You can either buy or build a workbench that suits your needs. Ready-built ones, in kit form, are available from the simplest made of steel and particle board to the most elaborate of joined oak or maple.

Welcome to Do it yourself woodworking furniture

As a home woodworker, you know the satisfaction you can derive from creating things with wood in your shop. What you may not know is that you're involved in a hobby that is quietly sweeping this country. Woodworkers are literally everywhere, and they're producing a lot of surprisingly good-quality work. We are all part of a renaissance of interest in quality, in things made by hand, and in the self-satisfaction that can come from doing things yourself.

The goal of all of us is to heighten your enjoyment of and increase your abilities in this fascinating hobby. We'll do this by providing you with lots of well designed, useful projects and shop-tested woodworking techniques ... all presented step-by-step ... and a host of other material designed to enlighten, inform and entertain.

I do need your help, though. I'd like to ask you to share with us and the rest of our readers your favorite shop tips, slides of some of your woodworking efforts, humorous experiences you've had while woodworking, and suggestions for articles you'd like us to present in “Woodworking plans for furniture”.

Once again, welcome to “Woodworking plans for furniture”! Here's to a long and satisfying woodworking relationship between us.

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woodworking plans for furniture