woodworking plans for furniture: October 2011

Other tips before you buy a woodworking router

While cost, horsepower, and collet size are the big three considerations in selecting a router, you should also be familiar with the following:

Your collet size options. Almost any conceivable routing job you'll encounter can be handled by a router with a 0.25" collet. But, if you plan to do lots of exceptionally heavy work, you might consider a tool with a collet big enough to take 3/8" or even 1/2" bits. Just make sure it will take 1/4" bits as well. A few routers won't.

Collet Adjustment. Most routers require two wrenches for bit changes. One holds the motor shaft; the other turns the collet nut. Other routers have built-in shaft locks so you only need one wrench. That's one less wrench to handle, one less wrench to keep handy.

Depth Adjustment. All three major types (ring, rack and pinion, and spiral) work well. And almost all read out depth in the same 1/64" intervals. But if you plan to use your router upside down in a router table, you might prefer rack-and-pinion depth adjustment. With many of the others, the router motor slips down in its base as soon as you loosen the locking clamp.

Plunge Routing Capability. Plunge routers are spring-loaded, with their bits retracted above the base until you "plunge" the router down by pressing downward on the grips. The bit will then drop to the depth you have preset. For certain cuts, most notably those in the field of your stock rather than along the edges, this capability comes in very handy. Without the plunge feature, you have to start your router in the air, and then lower it down to the work.

Switch Type. A trigger switch is probably the most convenient for conventional routing for two reasons. First, you can squeeze it while maintaining two-hand control of the tool. And second, it shuts off automatically when you release it. On the minus side? You can accidentally squeeze the trigger when you pick up the tool. Not only that, but triggers also are hard to get at if you fasten your router to a router table. In addition, most trigger-switch routers have no removable bases. This rules out freehand carving as well as the use of just the router motor.

Toggle, rocker, and slide-type switches can be almost as convenient as triggers, provided they are located where you can reach them with both hands on the router grips. They are also better than triggers for router table work, and they usually allow you to remove the router base if necessary.

Drawbacks? Some of these switches are poorly located. All can be accidentally left on, or knocked on when the router is unplugged.

Handle Type. Most routers come with a pair of handles, usually knobs. But others have two vertical arm like grips, or a pair of D-shaped handles, or a combination of D- handles and knobs.

Which type is best? It's a matter of preference, but my experience is that small spherical knobs can cause cramps in your hands. For that reason I prefer a huskier grip such as arms or a pair of D-handles. For freehand work, I like the handles low on the router so I can rest my arms on the work for better control.

Electronic Features. The electronic revolution is just beginning to work its way into the shop, and three routers listed in the chart have special electronic features. Some woodworking routers have a digital depth-of-cut display, and these big routers give you a choice of two speeds, other woodworking routers have electronically controlled variable speeds, plus indicator lights that help you feed the tool at the proper speed. If you have experience with routers, you can probably sense the proper feed speed by ear and feel, but the indicators can help if you are just learning.

Variable Speeds. I've found them useful, especially for making slow, finish cuts in hardwoods.

Dust Pickup. These work fairly well on some cuts, and not so well on others. My feeling is that if I have to sweep up any chips, I might as well sweep them all and be free of the clumsy vacuum hose.

Worklights. These can be helpful if properly located in the router. Try before you buy.

What you should know before you buy a woodworking router

It's hard not to be impressed with a woodworking router's credentials. After all, with the right bits and accessories, it can cut intricate joints, make moldings, carve, make sighs, rout fancy edges, cut curves, make bowls, turn wood, joint edges, and trim laminates. No other shop tool is as versatile or more fun to use.

What isn't so fun is trying to decide which one to buy?

There are just too many, to choose, from, each with a different blend of features, each at a different price. After paring down your choices somewhat, you can then focus your attention on selecting a woodworking router with features that best suit your requirements. The following information and also from next articles, should help you do that.

How much horsepower do you need?

There is no substitute for power. Sure, a light-duty woodworking router can duplicate the work of a more powerful tool by taking two or more light cuts instead of one heavy one. But multiple cuts multiply your chances for error, and resetting the depth adjustment time after time is annoying.

Horsepower also determines how effective a woodworking router will be in maintaining operating RPMs. Any router you buy will have more than adequate rpms under no load, but an underpowered tool will slow down as soon as you feed it some work. As the tool slows down, cut quality drops off, the tool begins to strain, and its life expectancy drops.

For these reasons, buy as much power as you can afford. Unless you are certain you only want your woodworking router to perform light work on softwoods, go for a minimum of one hp. If you know you'll be making heavy cuts such as dadoes, cutting deep mortises and large tenons, or working extensively with hardwoods, I'd suggest selecting one with at least 1.5 hp.

Buying power will also almost certainly assure you of higher quality throughout the tool. You'll certainly get all ball-bearing construction rather than the less expensive and less durable sleeve bearings. I've owned two sleeve bearing routers in the past, and both burned out in a relatively short time. As you can see from the chart, most manufacturers have gone exclusively to ball bearings.

Tips for planning your woodworking place

As I've been telling you in previous article "Having a specific place to do your woodworking" , i'll continue with a series of tips planning your woodworking place:

• Selecting the right workbench for your situation is an all- important step since it will be the center of your woodworking activity. Full-size workbenches typically measure 6' to 8' long bench in these sizes may not work for you. Or, standard heights may prove uncomfortable. So, obviously, you'll have to do some tailoring. A good rule of thumb to remember is that working height should be about even with your hipbone, but decide what will be best for you.

You can either buy or build a workbench that suits your needs. Ready-built ones, in kit form, are available from the simplest made of steel and particleboard to the most elaborate of joined oak or maple.

If you build your own, no matter what its finished size, use sturdy materials and strong fasteners that results in a durable, steady work surface.

• Storage for tools and liquids as well as many of the other supplies you'll accumulate is a must. Otherwise, they'll quickly clutter up the shop and make any project more difficult. Store small hand tools within easy reach on a rack made of perforated hardboard. Use inexpensive plastic organizers to hold screws, bolts, and other hardware. Flammable and toxic liquids, such as thinner, glue, and paints, as well as power tools, should be stored in locked cabinets or other safe places away from curious young ones.

• Plan for proper lighting. Have one or two overhead lights for general illumination and several more concentrated fixtures for task lighting.

• A minimum electrical supply for power tools and lighting is one 20-amp circuit with ground fault protection. Larger shops should have one circuit for power tools and another for lighting. Position outlets around the shop so power is never far away.

An exhaust fan capable of changing shop air every four minutes provides adequate ventilation. Determine the size fan you need by figuring the cubic feet in your shop (length*width*height). You'll welcome this addition when gluing and finishing.

• Keep emergencies in mind. For warning against fire, you'll want to install a smoke detector. If one starts, have a good-size ABC-rated fire extinguisher handy. Battery- powered lights should be within reach in case of power failure. And a fully equipped first-aid kit will help you deal with injuries should they occur.

• Keeping the shop clean adds to safety and work efficiency. A broom and large dustpan are minimum. A shop vacuum is better. You'll also need a metal trash container with a tight-fitting lid to hold all the waste material you'll generate from project to project.

• A pair of sawhorses is a necessity for supporting bulky sheet goods and lengths of lumber while sawing or measuring. If space will be at a premium, consider buying the hinged, metal leg horses or the metal bracket type, both of which are easily disassembled for storage. You can build your own of scrap wood easily, and they'll be sturdier, but they will take up room.

• Lumber, hardwood, and sheet goods require storage, too. All wood should be kept off a con¬crete floor or it will take in moisture. Construct flat racks for your woods if you have the space. Otherwise, sheet goods can stand on edge, file card fashion, if propped so they won't bend or bow. Floor space may be limited, so look above for the possibility of overhead storage.

Once set up with the basics, you'll be able to work comfortably and efficiently, adding touches as you go along to complete your workshop.

Having a specific place to do your woodworking

As with any other hobby, you'll need an area that's convenient, comfortable, well-organized, and with sufficient space for work and storage. Depending on your experience level, the number of tools you have, and the size of most of your projects, that space can be great or small, basic or elaborate, but you'll need a definite area for a workshop to call your own.

Finding The Space

Available space, and your needs, will dictate where to locate your shop. The most likely places are basements, garages, and seldom - used rooms, but even closets and attics can be candidates. A basement, though, has several distinct advantages over other areas. It's out of the normal family traffic pattern, so your work won't be disrupting. More often than not, it has lots of unused space that can be put to immediate service as well as allow for expansion. And, basements make a comfortable working atmosphere - cool in summer and reasonably warm in winter.There are, however, two limiting factors in using a basement: accessibility and dampness. First, you have to be able to get materials in and out without much difficulty. And if you can't control dampness by waterproofing or dehumidifying, you'll have to locate other shop space.

Planning For Your Needs

Once you've found the site for your shop, take some time to plan on how to best equip it. The pointers which i'll present you in the next article, can help you decide on what to include, space permitting, of course.

What is the difference between consumer and professional woodworking power tools?

Most people know that tool manufacturers produce more than one line of a product for varying consumer needs. What they may not realize is how these tools differ in their manufacture, and what it is that makes one drill, for example, cost $25 and another "similar" one cost $125. We explain some of the points of difference here.

Design. The professional power tool is designed to be more powerful, last longer, and perform better under continuous-use conditions than consumer models. For occasional, around-the-house situations, you may prefer a less-expensive consumer woodworking tool.

Electrical cords. On most consumer tools, the electrical cord is 6 feet long or less. With the professional models, 8 and often 10-foot cords are the norm. With this length of cord, a worker doesn't have to use an extension cord in most situations.

Cord materials vary, too. With woodworking tools designed for professionals, who may have to work outside, it's important for the cord to remain flexible during cold weather. To protect the tools, natural rubber or high- cost elastomer jackets are used. Less-costly cords are sheathed with polyvinyl-chloride (PVC) material.

In addition, on the pro tool the cord protector leading into the tool is separate from the cord to facilitate replacement. On the consumer tool, the protectors are molded onto the cord.

Switches. Dust and frequent usage are the enemies of tool switches. Since woodworking professional tools are subjected to more of both, switches need to be heavy-duty and protected from dust.

Motors. Professional-quality woodworking tools have motors designed to generate more power and sustain overloading for longer periods than consumer tools. At the same time they must be light enough for trades people to use for a long time. To guard against short-circuiting at high temperatures and speeds, manufacturers coat the windings of better-quality motors with epoxy.
More-expensive woodworking tools have copper windings rather than aluminum ones because, while copper costs more, it makes the motor more powerful.

Precise positioning of the carbon brushes, which transfer electricity from the electrical outlet to the motor, also sets professional tools apart from consumer tools. On the former, the brushes are held by close- tolerance brass holders rather than by the high-impact plastic ones on the latter.
Another difference is the type of bearings used. Generally, consumer tools have sleeve bearings. For pro tools, manu-facturers use better-quality ball bearings to a greater extent to reduce the amount of lateral movement and vibration.
Gears. Often, a heavy-duty tool has wrought-steel gears, which are heat-treated to harden the metal. With some consumer tools, powdered-metal gears are used because they're less expensive.

Housings. Unless you know plastics, it's difficult to tell the difference between the materials used on pro tools and their consumer counterparts. Super-tough nylon often sheathes the former, and consumer tools have a less durable plastic covering.
Metal housings differ, too. The professional has mating surfaces that have been machined to fit against the motor housing. The consumer model is diecast with minimal machining.

Assembly. The major components of pro tools inter¬lock with one another. With consumer tools, the components often are held together with one set of screws.

Safety. No matter which type of equipment you buy there are certain maintenance procedures you'll want to follow for safety as well as extended tool life.

All electrical power cables should be in good repair, without frays, breaks or loose plugs. If your home workshop outlets aren't the three-prong type, always use a grounding plug adaptor.
If the woodworking tools aren't self-lubricating, follow the instructions in the manual to lubricate them at regular intervals.

And keep blades sharp. Dull blades can be dangerous as well as ruinous to work.

Woodworking tools - safety tips

Practicing tool safety regularly is one of the first habits to develop in the home workshop. Use common sense, and the guidelines below, to add to the many hours of woodworking enjoyment ahead of you in the shop.

• Always unplug a power tool before servicing or adjustment. Let moving parts come to a standstill.

• Never wear loose-fitting clothes or dangling jewelry when using power or hand tools.

• Check the condition of a tool before you use it. Inspect power cords for cracks or frays, cutting edges for sharpness, and handles for stability.

• Don't tamper with or remove safety mechanisms from power tools - they're there for your protection.

• Use the proper tool for a job. Read and understand all instruction manuals that apply to a tool before you use it. Find out what it was meant to do as well as what it can't do.

• If there is even a remote possibility of eye injury in a particular situation, don't hesitate to wear safety goggles.

• Keep onlookers, especially children, a safe distance away while you're working with tools. Always instruct others in the proper use of a tool before letting them use it.

• Work in good light. Use bulbs of sufficient wattage and have extra clamp-on lights available as needed.

• Never work with tools when you're in a hurry, tired, or in a bad mood.

• Put tools away after use, preferably in a locked cabinet.

How to plan your home workshop 2

If you build, your own, no matter what its finished size, use sturdy materials and strong fasteners that results in a durable, steady work surface.

• Storage for tools and liquids as well as many of the other supplies you'll accumulate is a must. Otherwise, they'll quickly clutter up the shop and make any project more difficult. Store small hand tools within easy reach on a rack made of perforated hard board. Use inexpensive plastic organizers to hold screws, bolts, and other hardware. Flammable and toxic liquids, such as thinner, glue, and paints, as well as power tools, should be stored in locked cabinets or other safe places away from curious young ones.

• Plan for proper lighting. Have one or two overhead lights for general illumination and several more concentrated fixtures for task lighting.

• A minimum electrical supply for power tools and lighting is one 20-amp circuit with ground fault protection. Larger shops should have one circuit for power tools and another for lighting. Position outlets around the shop so power is never far away.

An exhaust fan capable of changing shop air every four minutes provides adequate ventilation. Determine the size fan you need by figuring the cubic feet in your shop (length x width x height). You'll welcome this addition when gluing and finishing.

• Keep emergencies in mind. For warning against fire, you'll want to install a smoke detector. If one starts, have a good-size ABC-rated fire extinguisher handy. Battery- powered lights should be within reach in case of power failure. And a fully equipped first-aid kit will help you deal with injuries should they occur.

• Keeping the shop clean adds to safety and work efficiency. A broom and large dustpan are minimum. A shop vacuum is better. You'll also need a metal trash container with a tight-fitting lid to hold all the waste material you'll generate from project to project.

• A pair of sawhorses is a necessity for supporting bulky sheet goods and lengths of lumber while sawing or measuring. If space will be at a premium, consider buying the hinged, metal leg horses or the metal bracket type, both of which are easily disassembled for storage. You can build your own of scrap wood easily, and they'll be sturdier, but they will take up room.

• Lumber, hardwood, and sheet goods require storage, too. All wood should be kept off a con¬crete floor or it will take in moisture. Construct flat racks for your woods if you have the space. Otherwise, sheet goods can stand on edge, file card fashion, if propped so they won't bend or bow. Floor space may be limited, so look above for the possibility of overhead storage.

Once set up with the basics, you'll be able to work comfort¬ably and efficiently, adding touches as you go along to complete your workshop.

How to plan your home workshop 1

Having a specific place to do your woodworking makes sense.
As with any other hobby, you'll need an area that's convenient, comfortable, well-organized, and with sufficient space for work and storage. Depending on your experience level, the number of tools you have, and the size of most of your projects, that space can be great or small, basic or elaborate, but you'll need a definite area for a workshop to call your own.

Finding the available space, and your needs, will dictate where to locate your workshop. The most likely places are basements, garages, and seldom - used rooms, but even closets and attics can be candidates. A basement, though, has several distinct advantages over other areas. It's out of the normal family traffic pattern, so your work won't be disrupting. More often than not, it has lots of unused space that can be put to immediate service as well as allow for expansion. And, basements make a comfortable working atmosphere - cool in summer and reasonably warm in winter.
There are, however, two limiting factors in using a basement: accessibility and dampness. First, you have to be able to get materials in and out without much difficulty. And if you can't control dampness by waterproofing or dehumidifying, you'll have to locate other workshop space.

Planning For Your Needs Once you've found the site for your shop, take some time to plan on how to best equip it. The following pointers can help you decide on what to include, space permitting, of course. Selecting the right workbench for your situation is an all - important step since it will be the center of your woodworking activity. Full-size workbenches typically measure 6' to 8' long and from 24" to 36" deep, with a height between 32" and 42". Because of space limitations, a bench in these sizes may not work for you. Or, standard heights may prove uncomfortable. So, obviously, you'll have to do some tailoring. A good rule of thumb to remember is that working height should be about even with your hipbone, but decide what will be best for you.

You can either buy or build a workbench that suits your needs. Ready-built ones, in kit form, are available from the simplest made of steel and particle board to the most elaborate of joined oak or maple.

woodworking plans for furniture